JULIANE WURM

Chongqing & Baku

It was the third time that a bouldering worldcup was held in Chongqing and my sixth trip to China.
We became all kind of specialists in handling this cultural shock after the last years. We arrived three days before the competition started in the same hotel as the last two years. Our bags were full of oatmeal, bars, nuts, because we had some bad experiences with the chinese food not being used to it and not knowing what you eat.
During the days till the competition we tried to get over the jetlag and stay in shape. Last year we had already discovered this olympic center with basketball courts and the typical chinese training playgrounds.
As real climbers we are of course not blessed with a natural ball handling talent, so pretty much all of us, except Jan, struggled with hitting the basket. Still it was huge fun to do some sport after a whole day of travelling.
Later on we still did some more serious exercises as pullups, campussing and some invented stuff by Udo on the playground.
The comp came closer and we got a little concerned as we hadn´t met any other competitors in the hotel yet… While we were joking about wether we messed up the date or they changed the city and we were the only team who didn´t know I texted Shauna Coxsey who told me that all the others are in a different hotel about half an hour away from where we were………
So we needed to move to the other hotel the next day:). Oups.
Then the comp began and it went quite well for me throughout all the rounds. I was already super happy that I made finals, as I never did so in four years of competing in the first comp of the year:).
Until the last boulder finals went quite perfect for me. The last boulder was a little too hard, so it had no more influence on the rankings. Only Alex Puccio sent it showing how strong she is on athletic boulders.
In the end it all came down to the tries on the second boulder, a jump. It turned out that I made one try less than Shauna, which put me on the first step of the podium!!!
While I was trying the last boulder I had no idea how many tries Akyio and Shauna had needed for the second boulder, but somehow I thought I had more tries, so I was surprised when Udo told me that I won:). Good start of the season!
After my climbing I still got to see Jan fighting up on his last boulder on some tiny crimps -> double victory!!!! It is such a good feeling to share this moment together!

The next day our adventure continued. We had our flight to Baku, Azerbaijan in the afternoon.
Once we arrived at the airport we were picked up by some nice guys from the competition. They came with official busses and drove us through the town to our hotel. It was crazy it was to get to see this city for the first time. Totally stunning. All those buidings and lights and besides I was still on cloud nine from having won in Chongqing:)… It was hard to realize that we´ve still been to China the same morning.
The next few days we explored Baku. We fell in love with the old town and the contrast to the newer buildings as the so called flame towers (by night they are illuminated which makes them look as flames).
Baku didn´t have to offer any climbing gym for a little training session, so we went on a playground again to do some pull-ups and core-exercises again. The playground was on a schoolyard so it became quite busy when the kids came out for there lunch break. They wanted to take photos with us, we needed to conciliate their love stories, and the little boys challenges big boys to pull-up-duels.
The other day we did some yoga in the fitness room of our hotel, from where we had a impressive view over Baku.
The competition went quite well. I made finals which was my main goal. After the observation I wasn´t really sure what to think about the boulders. They didn´t look very special (the routesetters told us they didn´t have enough holds and the mats arrived to late, so they had a hard time setting good boulders). Unfortunately they tunred out to be a little too easy, too.
Anna flashed all the boulders, Akyio and Shauna (dabbed on the last one) needed one more try and I needed three more tries. I had some trouble with the first boulder. On my first try I fell on the last move, then I fell once in the lower part. A technical incident (the clock didn´t show my time anymore) gave me a two minutes rest and after this I sent the boulder.
The last three boulders felt easier. I flashed boulder 2 and 3. On boulder 4, after the first move I was told to come down by a judge, because I dabbed. I didn´t feel having touched the floor at all, but in the end it didn´t change my result anymore. I did it next try and finished on fourth place.
I´m happy with my climbing as I did all the boulders in finals. It´s a little stupid that I didn´t do the first one in less attemps, but oh well, still many comps to do this year:).

Ticino

Last year I spent one week in Ticino and thought it was amazing. Jan and I booked a room at “Stillharts” in Claro, which is close to Cresciano. The weekend before going to Switzerland we had a national team training camp at Stuttgart´s Climbmax, which was super intense. The routesetters came up with three high class circuits, involving every sort of climbing style… slabs, jumps, crimps, compression,…
I tried to be focussed and it went quite well. At the end of the weekend I was totally wrecked and happy with my climbing.
One restday and we went to Ticino. We were both too psyched to take two restdays, which might have been better for our skin…
The first two days we climbed at Cresciano. I tried many boulders. On both days I tried Franks Wild Years (8a) in the end. This one is such a cool problem. It requires a weird pinching tecnique while the footholds could be better. It was a cool feeling to finish this one, because I already tried it last year and couldn´t do the first two moves that time.
On our last day we went to Chironico to a sector called 101. Jimmy Webb did a first ascent of a boulder called Big Cat (8b+) the day before and Jan was psyched to try it after Jimmy showed him his video.
Right next to this boulder there is a rather not so big looking 8a+ called Einfisch Kleinfisch, which I tried. I could do all the moves after a while and stood on the top after one or two hours…
Jan had to stop his climbing due to 8 (!) split fingers, so we went up the hill a few meters where I climbed Arete With A Pocket.
In the afternoon we already drove back home to Germany, because we both had no more skin left….
I´m psyched to be back bouldering in Switzerland during the summer break between the Worlcups!
But now we´re back on training, getting in shape for the first Worldcups… :-D

Three weeks trip to the US

A few months ago I decided to take one semester off from Uni in order to have more time for climbing.
Since than I trained hard and psyche got high for upcoming trips.
I had a few exams to pass in January and February and Jan and I flew to Hueco Tanks straight after my last exam on Feb 8th.
This area is amazing. So many good climbs! There are four sectors. North, which is self-guided, East, East Spur and West, where you have to find a guide, who comes with you to the boulders.
Once we arrived there it turned out that we weren´t very well organized. We didn´t have a rental car nor did we make any reservations for guides in advance. We were super lucky meeting some nice guys in the Rock Ranch who took us to the areas and showed us a few things on our first days. Thanks to Nick, Jimmy and Jordan!!
The easiest mountain to get to was North Mountain, where we went quite a few days.
The week passed really fast and the Hueco Rock Rodeo came closer. I´ve heard a lot about this event and was really psyched to do it. Especially this was a good opportunity to get to East Spur where we haven´t been until then.
The event began with some nice slide shows of Sam Davis, Mina Leslie-Wujastyk and Dave Graham the evening before.
Next morning a group of many many people got into busses which drove us to East Spur. In the morning I mostly went around with Mina, who already knew the area and demonstrated all the boulders first go and told me her beta… Later on we met Nina Williams and Courtney Sanders and climbed a few boulders all together. I had so much fun climbing outdoor with other girls and finding some good beta together…
At around 4pm Mina and I had climbed quite a few 7C and 7C+ boulders. Our skin began to hurt and I already felt pretty tired.
To finish the day we decided to try the Flame (8A). I expected to just give it a few tries and then coming back another day. But surprisingly this thing went down pretty fast. I guess it fit my style very well and I figured out some cool heel hook beta. Good finish of the day!
In the end I won the comp ahead of Mina and Nina and we finished the weekend with some good fish tacos :D.
Among the men Daniel Woods crushed it sending one 8B+, two 8Bs,… Jan finished 5th flashing Full Monty (8A+), The Scream (8A), The Flame (8A),…
After a few more days in Hueco Jan and I flew to Denver to compete in the ABS Nationals in Colorado Springs.
I was a little nervous, because this was the first comp after quite a while and we haven´t climbed on plastic for two weeks.
But then qualifiers went really well and I flashed all boulders. Semifinals took place the next day. I was really motivated, but it didn´t go so well. I topped out only one boulder and already expected not to be in the final. But then it turned out that I wasn´t the only one to struggle with those boulders. I found out that I placed 5th after semis, so I made it into finals.
Finals went well again. I climbed the first three boulders and was already happy with my performance. From the beginning on I had this last boulder in my mind. I´m always having my difficulties on this super steep walls (same wall as they use for the Vail Worldcups) and often we have our last boulder on this part of the wall. I wanted to climb this boulder so bad. It began with a big jump then a few moves through the roof and three more moves to the top. First try I missed the jump. Second try I stuck to the jug. I climbed till the last move but overlooked a foothold. Then I saw the foothold but I was already to pumped to do the last move… I found myself back on the mat and couldn´t believe that I fell on the very last move…
I expected to finish second or so but then the others reminded me that on this competition they count every hold, so it´s not too bad falling on the last move…
And whoop I won. Crazy! Alex Puccio got second (and handed me her trophee- THANKS!) ahead of Megan Mascarenas.
So after this we had one more week left in Boulder. Jimmy Webb & Kasia Pietras invited us to stay at their place. We had so much fun hanging out in Boulder, training in the gyms there and eating burritos, burgers and sandwiches in the evening. They also showed us two nice climbing areas. Temperatures in Colorado were super low (-10°C) though, so I had a hard time getting motivated to put on my shoes and only climbed one boulder :-). I´m psyched to come back during summer!

ARD Morgenmagazin

Unluckyly I was still asleep at 7am this morning, but my mom just texted me that she has seen me in tv. I´m kind of proud of being in such a big tv program :) exciting!

WDR Lokalzeit

I´ve been on german tv recently. Check out the video!! (german :-))