JULIANE WURM

Ticino

Last year I spent one week in Ticino and thought it was amazing. Jan and I booked a room at “Stillharts” in Claro, which is close to Cresciano. The weekend before going to Switzerland we had a national team training camp at Stuttgart´s Climbmax, which was super intense. The routesetters came up with three high class circuits, involving every sort of climbing style… slabs, jumps, crimps, compression,…
I tried to be focussed and it went quite well. At the end of the weekend I was totally wrecked and happy with my climbing.
One restday and we went to Ticino. We were both too psyched to take two restdays, which might have been better for our skin…
The first two days we climbed at Cresciano. I tried many boulders. On both days I tried Franks Wild Years (8a) in the end. This one is such a cool problem. It requires a weird pinching tecnique while the footholds could be better. It was a cool feeling to finish this one, because I already tried it last year and couldn´t do the first two moves that time.
On our last day we went to Chironico to a sector called 101. Jimmy Webb did a first ascent of a boulder called Big Cat (8b+) the day before and Jan was psyched to try it after Jimmy showed him his video.
Right next to this boulder there is a rather not so big looking 8a+ called Einfisch Kleinfisch, which I tried. I could do all the moves after a while and stood on the top after one or two hours…
Jan had to stop his climbing due to 8 (!) split fingers, so we went up the hill a few meters where I climbed Arete With A Pocket.
In the afternoon we already drove back home to Germany, because we both had no more skin left….
I´m psyched to be back bouldering in Switzerland during the summer break between the Worlcups!
But now we´re back on training, getting in shape for the first Worldcups… :-D

Three weeks trip to the US

A few months ago I decided to take one semester off from Uni in order to have more time for climbing.
Since than I trained hard and psyche got high for upcoming trips.
I had a few exams to pass in January and February and Jan and I flew to Hueco Tanks straight after my last exam on Feb 8th.
This area is amazing. So many good climbs! There are four sectors. North, which is self-guided, East, East Spur and West, where you have to find a guide, who comes with you to the boulders.
Once we arrived there it turned out that we weren´t very well organized. We didn´t have a rental car nor did we make any reservations for guides in advance. We were super lucky meeting some nice guys in the Rock Ranch who took us to the areas and showed us a few things on our first days. Thanks to Nick, Jimmy and Jordan!!
The easiest mountain to get to was North Mountain, where we went quite a few days.
The week passed really fast and the Hueco Rock Rodeo came closer. I´ve heard a lot about this event and was really psyched to do it. Especially this was a good opportunity to get to East Spur where we haven´t been until then.
The event began with some nice slide shows of Sam Davis, Mina Leslie-Wujastyk and Dave Graham the evening before.
Next morning a group of many many people got into busses which drove us to East Spur. In the morning I mostly went around with Mina, who already knew the area and demonstrated all the boulders first go and told me her beta… Later on we met Nina Williams and Courtney Sanders and climbed a few boulders all together. I had so much fun climbing outdoor with other girls and finding some good beta together…
At around 4pm Mina and I had climbed quite a few 7C and 7C+ boulders. Our skin began to hurt and I already felt pretty tired.
To finish the day we decided to try the Flame (8A). I expected to just give it a few tries and then coming back another day. But surprisingly this thing went down pretty fast. I guess it fit my style very well and I figured out some cool heel hook beta. Good finish of the day!
In the end I won the comp ahead of Mina and Nina and we finished the weekend with some good fish tacos :D.
Among the men Daniel Woods crushed it sending one 8B+, two 8Bs,… Jan finished 5th flashing Full Monty (8A+), The Scream (8A), The Flame (8A),…
After a few more days in Hueco Jan and I flew to Denver to compete in the ABS Nationals in Colorado Springs.
I was a little nervous, because this was the first comp after quite a while and we haven´t climbed on plastic for two weeks.
But then qualifiers went really well and I flashed all boulders. Semifinals took place the next day. I was really motivated, but it didn´t go so well. I topped out only one boulder and already expected not to be in the final. But then it turned out that I wasn´t the only one to struggle with those boulders. I found out that I placed 5th after semis, so I made it into finals.
Finals went well again. I climbed the first three boulders and was already happy with my performance. From the beginning on I had this last boulder in my mind. I´m always having my difficulties on this super steep walls (same wall as they use for the Vail Worldcups) and often we have our last boulder on this part of the wall. I wanted to climb this boulder so bad. It began with a big jump then a few moves through the roof and three more moves to the top. First try I missed the jump. Second try I stuck to the jug. I climbed till the last move but overlooked a foothold. Then I saw the foothold but I was already to pumped to do the last move… I found myself back on the mat and couldn´t believe that I fell on the very last move…
I expected to finish second or so but then the others reminded me that on this competition they count every hold, so it´s not too bad falling on the last move…
And whoop I won. Crazy! Alex Puccio got second (and handed me her trophee- THANKS!) ahead of Megan Mascarenas.
So after this we had one more week left in Boulder. Jimmy Webb & Kasia Pietras invited us to stay at their place. We had so much fun hanging out in Boulder, training in the gyms there and eating burritos, burgers and sandwiches in the evening. They also showed us two nice climbing areas. Temperatures in Colorado were super low (-10°C) though, so I had a hard time getting motivated to put on my shoes and only climbed one boulder :-). I´m psyched to come back during summer!

ARD Morgenmagazin

Unluckyly I was still asleep at 7am this morning, but my mom just texted me that she has seen me in tv. I´m kind of proud of being in such a big tv program :) exciting!

WDR Lokalzeit

I´ve been on german tv recently. Check out the video!! (german :-))

Fontainebleau

I spent the last few days of my summer break in Fontainebleau. I drove to Font with my brother. Jan and a few friends already had some good days there and awaited us at our house. We were hosted in a very comfy gite with a fireplace in the living room with the  Team MadRock Germany and Netherlands.

Our short trip began a little sadly… It rained cats and dogs the first day so we were sitting in the gite the first 24 hours. Meanwhile my brother became a chief in firescience and heated the whole house to 40 degrees. Even though it rained some crazy guys of our team  went on a mushroom furay in the forest. So in the evening we ate Bruscetta a le funghi and BBQ.

Then the weather became better. On our second day the streets were still wet but the sky was blue and the sun was shining. To let the boulders dry and in order to test our patience skills we visited one of the bakerys and bought baguette, pain aux figues, eclaires, pain au chocolat, quiches au saumon,… Afterwards we drove super motivated to “Hautes Plaines”, but…. it was too wet… Next stop: Aprement. Luckily most of the boulders were dry so we climbed some nice 7a´s and encouraged Jan in sending Apparement Bas in the evening.

For the second day MadRock had organized some photo shoots. Together with Bram Berkien as a photographer we went to Gorges aux Oiseaux to take some pictures of Jan and then to Roche au Sabots where I posed for the camera :). After we finished the photo shoot I was quite motivated to try “Salle gosse”. I had already tried this boulder a few years ago, but I didn´t figure out how to do the last move.

This time I tried  he two different betas. It felt quite good to me to take the intermediate hold and go to the top with the left hand. Once I reached the top I came down and checked the sitdown start… A few minutes later I stood on the top of the boulder and was super happy!! 

Check out the pictures below!! - my favourite is the last one :D